Part1. What is Glabridin powder?
Glabridin is a flavonoid, extracted from a precious plant called licorice glabra. Glabridin is known as "whitening gold" because of its powerful whitening effect, which can eliminate free radicals and melanin in the skin. It is the skin whitening and anti-aging holy thing.
Part2. The main mechanism of action of glabridin to inhibit melanin is as
follows:
1. Inhibition of tyrosinase
Human tyrosinase is an essential enzyme, which can regularly produce melanin and turn the skin or eyes from brown to black. We know that exposure of the skin to ultraviolet light can cause some reactions (such as inflammation). Since the phospholipid membrane of the skin tissue is damaged by the reactive oxygen species induced by ultraviolet light, this histological change is manifested as erythema and hyperpigmentation. Active oxygen is a substance that can cause skin pigmentation, so inhibiting its production can inhibit the production of melanin. Glabridin is the most expensive and effective whitening ingredient among all whitening ingredients. According to "Materia Medica", the whitening effect of glabridin is 232 times that of ordinary vitamin C, and 16 times higher than that of hydroquinone. "Arbutin "1164 times, so Glabridin is called "whitening gold".
2. Anti-inflammatory effect
The anti-inflammatory activity of glabridin was verified by experiments. The guinea pigs were irradiated with ultraviolet rays to cause pigmentation, and then 0.5% glabridin solution was applied to it. It was found that glabridin reduced skin inflammation caused by ultraviolet stimulation. Erythema on the skin is represented by a value. By recording the a value (color meter reading) of glabridin before and after irradiation, the degree of inflammation reduction can be calculated. The researchers studied the activity of glabridin in inhibiting cyclooxygenase. Cyclooxygenase is the enzyme that converts arachidonic acid into prostaglandins, which are pro-inflammatory factors. Compared with the control group (using the current cyclooxygenase inhibitor, indomethacine), glabridin can achieve the effect of inhibiting cyclooxygenase. It is believed that glabridin affects the production of arachidonic acid by inhibiting cyclooxygenase, thereby reducing inflammation.
3. Antioxidant effect
Glabridin has a strong effect of scavenging free radicals. Vitamin C, vitamin E and β-carotene are recognized as the three kings of anti-oxidation and anti-aging. Glabridin’s anti-aging ability is comparable to that of vitamin E. Oxidant, it is reported that the antioxidant effect of its antioxidant is significantly better than that of BHA and BHT. [3] It has been reported in the literature that licorice can be used to reduce corticosteroids in infectious skin diseases and can enhance the effect of steroids.
Part3. Cosmetic application
Glabridin has excellent anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative and anti-melanin formation effects, so it is used as an ingredient in various cosmetics and medical care products (such as face cream, lotion, shower gel, etc.). It can be made into a whitening cream, and there are already such patented products on the market.
Dosage: In cosmetics, in order to achieve the whitening effect, the patent recommended dosage is 0.001-3% glabridin, preferably 0.001-1%. With glycerol 1:10, add at low temperature. Glabridin for external use can inhibit the formation of melanin. It has excellent tyrosinase inhibitory activity and can prevent skin tanning, line spots and sunburn. The recommended dosage is 0.0007-0.05%. Studies have shown that as long as 0.05% glabridin, 0.3% aloe powder, 1% nicotinamide, and 1% AA2G can inhibit melanin tyrosinase by 98.97%, if it is to inhibit male hormones and treat acne, light The dosage of Glycyrrhizin is 0.01-0.5%.
In China, scientists have also studied the preparation of glabridin liposome and its application in cosmetics. The results showed that glabridin liposomes could be successfully prepared by adopting liposome model and preparation technology. The phospholipid bilayer membrane of glabridin liposome is similar to a biological membrane, which is easy to fuse with the biological membrane, promotes the penetration of the functional ingredients to the biological membrane, and makes the efficient delivery of the functional ingredients across the skin barrier and biomembrane higher. It has a positive effect on improving its skin whitening and freckle removal effect and other auxiliary effects.
